New & Improved…

Here’s the main Bolt assembly…

And, a better Trigger assembly…
Documenting My Journey to Becoming Boba Fett
I started trying to assemble the original parts I printed, and found that they were extremely flimsy and difficult to put together. So, I went back into the 3D software and combined all of the sub-assemblies into the full part so I can re-print them…
Here’s the main Barrel assembly…
Just a quick note about the PLA+ filament with actual wood fibers, it really does feel like wood, sands sort of like wood, and even smells like wood while it’s printing…
Here’s the smaller part of the stock, removed from the build plate…
The next parts to be printed were the alignment blocks I created to help in assembly of the stock…
The alignment blocks, completed…
Beginning the final part of the stock…
The alignment blocks, removed from the build plate…
The alignment blocks, all cleaned up…
After about six hours of printing, the final part of the stock was completed…
The final part of the stock, removed from the build plate…
I was finally able to spend the time needed to repair all of the errors of the stock file so I could cut it into two parts to fit on my build plate. I chose to use PLA+ filament with actual wood fibers for the stock of the Blaster. In order to use this type of filament, I had to swap out the hot end to a larger size to help prevent clogging. I have just been too lazy to make the switch, until today…
After a lot of test runs to get my printer properly calibrated to print with this new filament, I finally started with the smaller part of the stock…
After almost six hours, the first part was done..
Bigger, and better…
I got a used pair of Uggs on eBay. The first step was to cut the scraps of robe & hood material into strips. Then, to start the boot wraps, I ran a strip around the sole, adhering it with hot glue…
Here, both boots have the first strip applied. I made small cuts where the material gathered, and glued it all down nice and flat…
Then, the rest of the boot was covered with strips of cloth. You want to make sure you wrap it randomly, so it doesn’t look predictable. Sometimes, I had three to four strips criss-crossing in different directions to give it that “hand wrapped” look…
New and improved..
To soften the transition between the hard hockey mask and the soft ball cap, I cut a piece of foam…
And adhered it ni place…
The new cloth I’ll be using to cover the face area is the recommended black speaker material. I’m using some regular black cotton material to make some ties…
The ties, folded and pressed…
I then ran a stitch down each side…
The new ties, pinned in place at the bottom of the new face cloth…
Test fitting the new face cloth…
I just used hot glue to secure the new face cloth in place…
To cover the wires and rivets, I cut a couple of pieces of foam…
And, adhered them in place…
Now that the back part of the eyes are black, I wanted to add a bit of reflectivity to the inside, so I cut some small disks of foil tape…
And stuck them in the back…
Here, the eye backs are attached…
And, with the clear cups attached…
These eyes look SO much better that the old ones…
New and improved..
The bill I cut off the front of the hat is this nice thick plastic material. So, why not make a battery holder out of it?
I marked out the design…
Then, cut it out…
I used a soldering iron to heat the fold lines, and “plastic welded” it all together where the sides connected…
That actually made a nice solid battery holder…
I then drilled some small holes so I can sew it in place on the ball cap…
New and improved..
I first removed the eyes…
Then removed the black fur and cloth…
Here, the bottom portion of the old foam has been removed. I want to redo the wiring, as well. Still deciding how I want to do that…
The original elastic strapping that came on the hockey mask was always difficult to keep straight and didn’t hold things very secure. So, I’m switching over to a better solution. I found a youth size black baseball cap at Hobby Lobby that has an adjustable velcro closure on the back. I cut off the bill…
Then, pop riveted the mask to the hat…
To redo the wiring, I think I want to run it on the outside of the mask…
I extended the wires, and added in an on/off switch…
The mask had a small opening that was perfect to run the wires through. I also cut off the excess mask material at the top…